Concrete Driveways in Arlington Heights, IL

Concrete driveways are the biggest single piece of concrete on most Arlington Heights lots, and many of them are worn out. Census survey figures summarized by Point2Homes show that more than half of local homes were built between 1950 and 1979. A driveway poured with the house has now been through 45 to 75 Illinois winters, plus decades of salt and tire traffic. When it cracks through, sinks at the garage or apron, or sheds its surface in flakes, patching usually buys only a season or two. A full replacement on a proper base starts the clock over.

Signs it is time for a new driveway

• Cracks that run all the way across the slab, often with one side higher than the other
• A section that has sunk at the garage door, creating a lip or a puddle
• The apron dropped or broken where it meets the street
• Scaling: the top layer flaking off, leaving rough, pitted concrete
• Water that runs toward the house or garage instead of away from it
• Old patches that have broken loose again

What the Village requires

Arlington Heights publishes specific driveway standards, and every driveway we pour in the village meets them:

• Private driveway: at least 4 inches of concrete on 4 inches of compacted CA-6 gravel. Wire mesh is optional.
• Approach (apron) and sidewalk crossing: at least 6 inches of concrete on 2 inches of compacted CA-6, with no wire mesh.
• Mix: at least a 6.1 bag mix, Class PV or equivalent, for the driveway, approach and sidewalk.
• Base: pea gravel and sand are not allowed under exterior concrete.
• Joints: a 6 by 1/2 inch expansion joint between the sidewalk and the driveway approach.
• Width: a driveway for a one- or two-car garage must be between 9 and 22 feet wide. A three-car garage may be up to 32 feet wide within 18 feet of the garage front, tapering to 22 feet. The apron can be up to 22 feet wide at the curb, with up to a 3-foot flare on each side.
• Inspections: a base inspection before the pour and a final inspection after the forms come out.

The Village also caps paved surfaces in the front yard at 50% and, on lots 70 feet wide or more, requires the driveway to stay at least 3 feet from the side lot line. An existing driveway that is wider than today's limits can generally be replaced in kind, as long as the nonconformity does not grow. We check this against your plat of survey before quoting.

How we build it

We saw-cut a clean line where the new concrete meets anything staying, break out the old slab and haul it away. Then we dig out soft soil, bring in crushed stone and compact it in layers. Forms set the grade so water drains toward the street or the yard, not the garage. Exterior concrete is air-entrained so it can take freeze-thaw cycles, and we finish it with a broom texture for grip on wet and icy days. Control joints are tooled or saw-cut at even spacing, and the slab is cured so the surface keeps enough moisture to gain strength.

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Finish options

• Broom finish: the standard. Simple, grippy and the least expensive.
• Exposed aggregate: the top layer is washed off to show the stone. Good traction and hides tire marks.
• Stamped or colored borders: a decorative band along the edges with a plain broom field in the middle.
• Integral color: a tint mixed through the whole slab so the color does not wear off.

If the driveway sees heavy vehicles, we may suggest a thicker slab or rebar in addition to the Village minimums.

Caring for a new driveway

Keep cars off it until we say it is ready, usually about a week. In the first winter, avoid de-icers entirely if you can and use sand for traction. After that, use salt sparingly, never use products with ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate, and shovel snow off rather than letting salty slush sit. Sealing the surface every few years helps keep water and salt out. HomeGuide lists sealing at $1 to $3 per square foot.